Stewardship Chronicles

Documenting Land Management in Northern Illinois

Click on Title or Image (If Present) to View Posts

Winter Fire 12/21/2025

Contents

Downspout Garden

Tree Underplanting

Woody Species Control

Weather Conditions

Future

After a previous post, “Fire’s Impact on Moss in a Prairie Planting,” I wanted to see if I could burn in a manner that would reduce impacts.

I had previously burned at below freezing temperatures. The brown-dead tips of Carex sprengelii burned off, leaving the green part of the leaves mostly intact. I had already burned off my prairie/sedge meadow garden for the year. Therefore, I burned some smaller areas where native plants had been established to see the result.

Downspout Garden

The sedge is Carex crawei. There is also Solidago ptarmacoides, Viola sororia, and a few other native plants in this garden. This garden would not carry fire when I burned my prairie/sedge meadow garden on November 14th. At that date, the fuel needed more time to “cure.”

Image of garden before burning.

Image of garden immediately after burning (below).

Notice the wet cardboard against my house. I had submersed this cardboard in water totally saturating it. I then used sticks stuck in the ground to keep the wet cardboard between my house and the area being burned. This successfully protected my house from the small flames. The fire dried out the surface of the cardboard facing the fire. However, completely wetting the cardboard prevented it from catching fire and burning.

Here is a photo after I completely sprayed down the garden with water. You can see that some of the green parts of the sedges remained unburned.

I had put about a foot of gravel between my house and the planting. The gravel was to act as a firebreak. However, the sedges spread into the gravel, eliminating the firebreak. I plan to fix this in the future. Burning off this planting mitigates the fire hazard until I get a more permanent fix in place. I think concrete pavers along the house will be a permanent solution.

Tree Underplanting

This planting around a tree has Carex pensylvanica and Carex rosea along with other native plants and a Heuchera cultivar.

Garden before burning.

Garden after burning. The dead sedge leaves carried fire. The oak leaves did not carry fire. Oak leaves only burned when they were between the sedges.

Garden after being sprayed down with water. The sedges on the down wind side burned all the way down to the sheaths. Further into the garden, a significant amount of the sedges’ green leaves remained intact. The green leaves of the Heuchera cultivar did not burn. Some of the edges of the Heuchera leaves were singed by fire. However, the Heucheras were not completely burned back to the ground, as has occurred when I burned in more favorable conditions. This is desirable. The Heucheras do not grow as well the next season if they have to grow back from the roots.

Woody Species Control

The red arrow in the above image points to an English yew that grew from seed. After burning, this English yew had some singing on the tips of its leaves. A few days later, and the leaves of this English yew all looked dead.

In the future, I will have to look in my prairie garden for common buckthorn and invasive bush honeysuckle seedlings. I will mark them to later see if burning during below freezing conditions will kill seedlings of these small invasive woody plants. I know burning during more typical weather conditions can kill common buckthorn seedlings. Controlling invasive woody species is an important benefit of fire. If fire under less favorable conditions does not kill small invasive woody species, then trade-offs will need to be considered. I may have to control the invasive species manually (if small) or with herbicide (if large) to still get the expected benefit to soil crust species from burning during below freezing temperatures.

Weather Conditions

The burning was started when the temperature was 26 degrees F. The temperature rose as high as 31 degrees F on this day. The relative humidity was listed in the forecast as 40 percent. Data from throughout the day gave the relative humidity getting as low as 37 percent.

Future

I will burn my prairie garden/sedge meadow planting in below freezing conditions in future seasons. This appears to not kill as much of the green-living material of the sedges. Also, I hope it will keeps soil crust species, like moss, from being killed. By burning in below freezing conditions, I can get the benefits of dead vegetation being removed and charcoal created, while minimizing impacts on living vegetation. I look forward to seeing how this management change will change my garden in the future. I am hopeful this change will benefit smaller species that grow near the ground and are impacted by hotter burns.

In gardens with deciduous tree leaves, I think these leaves would burn if they had an additional day of low humidity to dry them further. I still want to try to burn areas with leaves as fuel during below freezing conditions, or at least when the ground is still frozen. I will just have to wait until they have had more time to dry. Where the leaves burned, they did not burn completely. There are a lot of partially burned leaves covering the ground. This is what I will be aiming for in the future.

5 responses to “Winter Fire 12/21/2025”

  1. Gabriel Bertilson Avatar
    Gabriel Bertilson

    In my limited experience, dried leaves of Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica) range from almost impossible to burn to very easy to burn depending on rain and humidity, even when they aren’t frozen. It’s possible that in some conditions frozen leaves would be dry enough to burn very well.

    I tried lighting dried Penn sedge leaves up on several days this March in Minnesota, mostly in the evening. On one day, they were fairly damp in the evening and only the very tips that were sticking up in the air would smolder and immediately go out. On other days, they burned rather aggressively and I blew the fire out to leave some dried leaf bases behind. Long-beaked sedge (Carex sprengelii) has tough leaves that burn easily on dry days and it’s too scary to light a clump up in a garden without a steel ring around it! I’ve observed ivory sedge that was scorched and turned pale after a fire, because it has so many evergreen leaves. It probably had some leaves that were dried and burned, but I didn’t observe it closely because I was busy lighting the fire. I’m curious how other sedge species burn depending on how close to the ground their leaves are, how quickly their leaves rot, and so on.

    Probably evergreen leaves of sedges or cool-season grasses or rushes reduce fire intensity because they retain water even when dead graminoid leaves are dry, and the water in the leaves takes energy from the fire when it is heated up as the fire goes through it. If the fire does not have enough energy to consume green leaves, perhaps the evergreen leaves die in the fire and later turn pale and dry out, and then have a chance to burn in the next fire.

    Like

    1. As I mentioned in the post, I tried to burn the “downspout garden” that has Carex crawei on Novemeber 14th. It would not burn on this date. It only burned later once the leaves had more time to “cure.” This means that the cold kills the leaves so there is more dead material.

      I do not know of any Carex species that will not burn. Maybe some tundra species are an exception.

      I have had Pennsylvania sedge burn very well. If the fuel had another day to dry then it would probably have all burned in the “tree underplanting” garden. If an area will not burn, then I can always wait for more favorable conditions for fire. I tend to try to burn just at the point when fire will carry, which is not on the most favorable days for fire.

      As for burning in gardens, be careful. Take classes. Volunteer to help with prescribed burns. Keep a hose ready. Keep the fire small. Wet down areas where you do not want the fire to spread. For example, areas near trees. Be safe.

      Like

      1. Gabriel Bertilson Avatar
        Gabriel Bertilson

        I recently got a steel drum with both ends cut off, which keeps fire contained and makes me feel quite safe burning as long as I keep fuel below 1 or 2 feet tall so flames don’t too high. And I use leather gloves to grab the warm metal and a watering can to keep fuel from smoldering and smoking. So I feel much safer.

        The green leaves of sedges don’t really burn unless other fuel makes them burn, so maybe species like Carex pedunculata that keep a nice skirt of green leaves in the winter don’t burn as well — though again one year’s leaves might be scorched by one fire and burn in the next. But some clumps of it seemed to have lost their winter green leaves in the same burn that scorched the ivory sedge. Carex deweyana may have a similar skirt of green leaves that are a bit less resilient, but I have trouble recognizing it when it doesn’t have fruit on it. Carex hirtifolia has leaves that seem weaker and more prone to rotting than Carex sprengelii, so I have to guess it burns less intensely. These all might be good garden or lawn plants, but I haven’t found anyone to sell them to me so I can observe them at home.

        Like

      2. You have good points about the sedges that would be unlikely to burn. There are some habitats like cliffs or flatwoods where fire does not tend to carry. I have not seen Carex pendunculata locally. Carex deweyana is extirpated from the one county in Illinois where it had been vouchered. I have seen Carex hirtifolia in flatwoods. Although, it probably grows in other woodlands.

        Most of the sedges I have, I grew from seed. A few were purchased. Don’t wait for someone else to grow them for you. Grow them yourself.

        Like

Leave a comment